Replacing a Keurig’s LCD Screen and Processing Board

Helping the brewer back to life …

In this our latest Repair Guide for Keurig brewers we help you through the 10 steps required to replace the LCD and connected board for a K-Cup brewer. Although we haven’t targeted Keurig 2.0 series machines with this guide, although we will have specific material for these brewers in the future, the principles are going to be similar.

Like all of our other guides we have used our trusty B60. With the amount of practice and trial and error repairs we have done with this machine we are still amazed it works – made a coffee with it just today!

But on with replacing the LCD and board.

Parts and Equipment Required

To keep the guides as simple as possible we always assume that Step 1, set out below, is completed already and so the equipment for that stage of the repair process we don’t mention here.


For this Repair Guide you will need a new LCD screen and connected board. Unfortunately these parts do tend to be second hard, rather than brand new as we prefer, but as long as you are buying from a good seller, and we tend to use for this, you shouldn’t have any problems. Check out our Keurig replacement parts page for more details and links.

The screen and board you buy can vary from just that to also including the outer casing, processing wires and air sensor tube. For this repair it doesn’t matter if it comes with the screen and board, but do make sure you select the components that match the model of Keurig you have. Just to make sure, have a look underneath the brewer at the metal base plate and check – it always has stenciled here what specific model the brewer is. The photo below shows the screen and board that came out of our B60 (the white tube sticking out at the top of the photo connects the board’s air pressure sensor to the tubing around the air pump and solenoid).



For the replacement of the LCD screen and board you will need:

  • Phillips head screw driver.
  • Torx head screw driver.

Steps to Follow

Step 1

This is the step most dreaded by people with Keurigs as it involves removing the outer casing from the machine. This is the step that takes the most time and is the most difficult to do well (ie without ruining the cosmetic look of the brewer). So take your time with this step and don’t rush it; and don’t be put off, we take you through each part of the process in a two part video series. It’s worth persevering to get your Keurig back to working order.

Step 2

As you see in the photo below we now have the casing off the brewer and ready to remove the top section to get to the LCD and processing board.


In the next two photos you will notice a couple of screw holes that are used to secure the top panel to the inner frame of the brewer. Make sure these are removed (they should have been as part of Step 1) – you will need a different screw driver head as we show in the third photo.




Step 3

We now have to remove the screw which secures the top panel to the frame of the B60. You do not have to take the screw all the way out, just enough to loosen it from the bracket.


Step 4

We now need to remove the air tube that fits between the air pump and solenoid and the air pressure sensor on the processor board. Looking at the photo below you can see the tube and plastic collar, that must be disconnected. Once you have the tube removed from the T junction, put the plastic collar aside so it doesn’t get lost (easily misplaced we have found).



Step 5

With the tube disconnected the last connection is the board connector between the micro processor and the main power board. As with the air tube, we’ll removal the plastic connector from the brewer but in this case from the power board.

To the opposite side of the air tube is the main power board. You will see a black cover, and this is what we need to remove. It has three screws to take out, including the one at the bottom which forms part of the cover over the transformer power supply.


With the cover off the connector you need to disconnect from the board is the large one with a lot of thin black (and in the B60 case one red wire) running between the power board and the processor board above. It can take a little encouragement to come off, but be gentle in ensuring pulling it out doesn’t damage the connection to the power board.



Step 6

With all the points of connection removed the top panel should lift off, gently. Place it down on a flat surface and turn it over and with that view you can see the LCD section and processor board is in a plastic housing. We need to remove the four screws that secure this plastic housing.


The four screws that hold the LCD plastic housing for a B60

Photo of a LCD removed from the top panel of a B60

Do be careful with the three small springs that sit between the plastic cup size selection and the micro sensors on the processor board. They just sit in their plastic selves and can easily fall out – and hard to find again!


Step 7

With the new LCD and processor board placed (including its own plastic housing) we now need to reassemble what we have taken apart. The new screen, board and housing can be placed back down on top of the back of the top panel and the four screws reattached (yes, we just placed back in the same LCD unit we took out as it didn’t need replacing in our case).

The B60 LCD screen and plastic housing re-attached

Step 8

The air tube, between the air pressure sensor and the air pump and solenoid, needs to be reattached. In doing this be careful in feeding the tube across the top of the boiler unit. Make sure it sits in front of the boiler and clear of electrical wires.


Ensure the plastic collar fits snugly back over the tube and connector so that there is a good fit with no air loss during operation. If this isn’t connected correctly the air pressure sensor, that the other end plugs into, may misread and we will not have solved any thing.


Step 9

The processor and power board connector is the next step. We need to ensure there is a good connection between the board and plastic clasp. A firm press back onto the board should do it. Make sure you hold onto the hard plastic of the connector rather than the wires themselves.


The next couple of photos show where there is risk of pinching points when recovering the power board. The first photo shows a pinch point at the top, and the second photo shows a problem at the bottom of the cover. In placing the cover back on it can take a little patience in guiding the wires back through the small inserts in the plastic to keep them together.



Step 10

All that is now required is to add some water and to see whether the brewer is working. If you have got to this point and this hasn’t solved the problem you were trying to correct please get in touch with us using the comment section below and we’ll see how we can help you any further.


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  • Cameron Murdock ,

    Would the same process be taken for replacing the screen/handle/ piercing needle assembly for a K350?